14 October 2007

Nyungwe Forest National Park

Since Friday was a national holiday, six of us decided to take a weekend trip to Nyungwe Forest National Park, an incredible rainforest in the southwest corner of Rwanda.

Early on Friday morning, we bought tickets and boarded a minibus at the bus station in Kigali. The bus was meant to hold twenty people (four in each row), but the three of us in the backseat bought an extra ticket so we could have a little extra space on the five hour trip. It turned out to be the best decision of the day; we still didn’t have a lot of room and the ride still wasn’t very comfortable, but I can’t imagine making the five-hour trip with four of us packed into the seat.

When we arrived in Nyungwe, we unpacked and had lunch at the guesthouse, and then went trekking for a colony of colobus monkeys. As soon as we started out on our trip, it started pouring rain, so within a few minutes we were soaked, but we continued anyway. We first had to hike through a tea plantation to get to the area where the colony of monkeys lives. As we hiked, the rain just kept pouring harder and harder. Eventually we stopped to wait for it to let up a bit.The rain never really let up so we continued into the forest. As the rain continued to pour, I was convinced that we wouldn’t see any of the monkeys. Finally, however, we spotted three sitting in a tree. We walked a little farther to try to get a better look, and saw a couple more. Even farther down the trail, we arrived at a point where we could see six or eight. We stopped to watch them for a few minutes, and the rain stopped. They were difficult to spot, but if you look closely, you should be able to see two of the black and white monkeys in this picture. One is near the top, just to the left of the center, and the other is more hidden at the bottom just to the right of the center.With the rain gone, the clouds also started to clear and we had a beautiful view into the distance. Just past the trees, we could see Lake Kivu and, beyond that, the hills of the Democratic Republic of Congo.
Finally, cold and wet, we returned to the guesthouse. One of the men took our shoes to be washed and dried while we ate dinner. Afterwards, we gathered around a fire in a small, covered area. While we were there, the man returned with our shoes, which had been washed, but not dried, so they were dripping wet, inside and out. We spent the next two or three hours roasting our shoes over the fire.

The next morning, we again got up early to hike to a waterfall in the forest. This time, the weather was perfect. It was sunny, warm and breezy as we again hiked through the tea plantation toward the forest.

Then we entered the forest and started the real hike. As we hiked, our guide showed us several trees and fruits and explained which ones were used to make clothing, which were used to start fires before matches were available, which the gorillas and chimpanzees ate, which the diviners in the village used to make candles to read the future, etc.
After a couple hours, we made it to the waterfall. We climbed to a rock just at the bottom of the falls and were surrounded by a beautiful scene. The forest rose up all around us, and in front of us was a huge, powerful waterfall. None of my pictures do it justice.

Finally, we hiked back out of the forest to the guesthouse. Some of the group had planned to stay another night, but three of us caught a bus back to Kigali so we could work today. I can’t decide whether the ride back was better or worse than the ride there. We were on a larger bus than before, which was much, much more comfortable, but it also drove much, much faster than the minibus, which made some of the mountain curves a little terrifying. But we made it back to Kigali, safe and sound, in just over four hours.

12 October 2007

A national holiday?

Even though less than ten percent of the population is Muslim, Eid al Fitr, which marks the end of Ramadan, is a national holiday in Rwanda. However, the date of the holiday apparently depends on an interpretation of the moon, so it cannot be set ahead of time. Instead, an approximate date is set and an announcement is made on the radio on the morning of the holiday. So we knew the holiday would be either Friday or Saturday (making the holiday from work either Friday or Monday), but we had to wait for a radio announcement to find out which it would be. Now, the thing to note is that (1) I don’t have a radio, and (2), even if I did, the announcement would be made in Kinyarwanda. Thankfully, our medical director offered to send text messages to all of the expats when the announcement was made, and the announcement was made early, so on Thursday night we found out that Friday would be a holiday. Even though we had scheduled approximately forty clinic visits and planned a full day at the counseling and testing centers, there would be no work. Instead we would post a notice on the gate at each site and take a vacation.

08 October 2007

In and around Kibuye

On Sunday afternoon, we decided to explore town and drive up in to the hills just behind Kibuye.

Again, the views were incredible.
As we drove, all cares and concerns seemed far, far away, at least until we ran into a group of Congolese refugees and were reminded of the harsher realities that coexist with the beauty of this place. Three young girls were making their way up the road to a refugee camp on top of the mountain. They had at least fourteen more kilometers to walk before they made it there.
Although we decided it would be best not to visit the camp, we did drive close enough to see it.
After our drive, we went to the market in town. Almost as soon as we arrived, though, it started pouring rain, and we had to split up and seek refuge under the awnings of the storefronts.
Waiting under the awnings for the rain to stop turned out to be a surprisingly fun, especially since almost everyone wanted their picture taken.

Kibuye genocide memorial

On Sunday morning we went to the genocide memorial church in Kibuye.
During the genocide, four thousand people sought refuge in this church. A mobbed attacked, throwing grenades through the stained glass windows and then using machetes to kill anyone who survived the explosions. Within three hours, all four thousand were killed. For a long while, the church remained deserted and scarred, but over time, it has been restored. The stained glass windows have been replaced, as have the carvings on the walls and the altar.
Outside there is a memorial to those who were killed and a mass grave for many of the bodies.
We arrived at the very end of Sunday morning worship. We were greeted by a huge crowd of children as the melody of final hymn from the service drifted outside. While we played and laughed with the children, the service ended and an enormous crowd exited the church. Many from the crowd greeted us and I was amazed at their hospitality. I found it truly amazing that there was such vibrancy and life at this place where such a horrific event had taken place. Yet the church was filled and the children welcomed us with huge smiles.

Weekend in Kibuye

This weekend, seven of us went to Kibuye, a town on the coast of Lake Kivu, a volcanic lake in western Rwanda on the border with the Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC). Kibuye is only about two and a half or three hours from Kigali, and the drive through the moutainous country was much better than I expected. The roads here are surprisingly good (thanks to the Chinese) and the scenery is gorgeous.We stayed at the Hotel Centre Bethanie, a Presbyterian retreat and hotel on a small penninsula on the lake. The entire scene was beautiful, especially the view from our rooms.

After we arrived on Saturday, we had lunch and then decided to take a boat ride on a wooden double-decker with lots of character.
We took the boat out to two islands in the lake. Once we were on the water, the view back toward Rwanda was incredible and across the lake we could barely see the DRC.The first island we visited, named 'Napoleon,' was uninhabited except for a few cattle and about a million bats. The second island was called Peace Island and had a small beach area where we hung out and swam for a while. I had no idea the lake would be so beautiful and so relaxing. It was a perfect vacation from work and from Kigali.